Monday 24 August

    These are not the flat, low, sandy coral islands like Diego Garcia
or the Bahamas. These are volcanic islands, and are a whole new
experience. First it was PICO in the Azores, rising almost 7,000 feet up
from the ocean, and almost perfect cone. Madeira is also a volcanic
island, and rises up from the ocean, but unlike Pico it is old and
broken, broken vertically into giant cracks, maybe 1/2 mile wide at the
bottom and 3, 4, 5,000 feet deep, sheer almost-straight-down walls, with
idyllic villages at the bottom. Nothing at the top; it is above the tree
line with nothing but scrub. I can not adequately describe it and can
not take a picture that can transfer the magnitude of these breaks in
the earth's surface. I found a taxi driver who I could communicate with,
and who seemed to understand what I wanted, no shopping please.
Eleuterio Andrade, (eleuterio.andrade@gmail.com). From the capital
Funchal the first venture was to the top of the highest mountain, or
almost the highest, another close by higher by a few meters. But this
one has a road, parking lot gift shop, etc.  But I am not kidding when I
say mountain. 1820 meters, 6000 feet, Klingsman Dome or Grandfather
Mountain in the Appalachians. Up from the ocean. I am still impressed.
And those canyons, look straight down at the top of a village thousands
of feet down. If there are pictures on adventtwo.blogspot.com try to
zoom in, or zoom down, and see the village, especially the roads
twisting around and through the mountain. Every few miles there is a
tunnel where the way up is too difficult so they go through. I was very
impressed with the mountains. I can go on babbling about them. . . . 
Very impressed. I wish I could take pictures that would show what I see.
  The best thing is to go to Google Earth and look at the pictures
others have posted.
    It is always interesting to see the changing climate as the
elevation increases. Down low the soil is rich, mild temperatures and
predictable  rainfall; beautiful fruits and vegetables of all kinds, and
of course grapes for the famous wines. I was surprized to see the vast
fields of bananas. Then up higher we got into a forest, very large
24"-36" diameter trees very tall, beautiful. I commented to Eleuterio
that they looked like eucalyptus trees. He said yes. Again I was
impressed. Impressed with the dense forest. The forest, driving through
it, was a lot like the more densely forested parts of our Appalachian
Mountains. Then the road would emerge from the trees and there would be
a 4,000 foot cliff!. Typically higher up go  into the clouds for awhile,
then, like a jetliner break out through the tops of the clouds to a
perfectly clear sky.
  My efforts at a description were over a two day period. I enjoyed my
trip with  Eleuterio so much the first day I found him the second day
and he took me on a rough circumnavigation of the island, showing me
nooks and crannys, cliffs and canyons. About 13:00 we were on the north
of the island, the apogee of the venture, and stopped overlooking the
ocean, looking back towards the Azores, so far away. He said that he
never knows where he will be a lunch time so he always carries some
fruit and sandwiches, and would I like some. What a nice thing to do for
your guest. We rested in the shade, had lunch watching the festival.
Very nice. A little later we were winding through the one-lane-wide
village streets, when we ran into a funeral coming down the street
towards us, carrying the subject of honor with a brass band behind. We
of course stopped, the first in line. The funeral party turned into the
walled cemetery, the band stopping at the gate and dispersing, children
sitting up on the wall so they could see. The entire experience seemed
very respectful and appropriate.
  Marina Quinta do Lorde is very nice and professionally operated, good
acommodations and good people to work with. Marina is very good. The
only thing wrong is that it is a long way from the city of Funchal, a
1.5 hour bus ride. And the first bus doesn't leave until 09:30. All the
local tours, ferry, even buses to other parts of the island have
already left when "my" bus arrives. And on Saturday the regular schedule
is less in frequency. When Eleuterio got me back to Funchal the bus had
left about 30 minutes earlier, and it would be more than two hours until
the next bus. I went to find Eleuterio, carrying the bags of produce. He
had taken me to a produce market on the way back where I loaded up on
beautiful fruits, and the most amazing carrots I have ever seen . I
found him, and asked for a ride back to the marina. It did not take him
nearly as long as it takes the bus. He took me to the end of the pier,
we settled the account, and I invited him to see Advent II. It was most
rewarding to me to share a small part of my life with this gentleman. I
enjoyed knowing him. Eleuterio, I know you are reading this. God bless you.
    I couldn't figure out how to go to church Sunday. More exactly, I
figured out how to get to church, but never did figure out how to get
back, the return bus does not pick you up at the drop off place. I
washed clothes, which went well except I could not start until 09:30
when things get going. I wonder about daylight savings time when nothing
starts until 09:30 and supper is at 22:00. Then after clothes I tried to
load pictures to share. I say I tried to. I don't know the outcome, or
how to find them, where they went or even if anything is there. Go to
Google Earth. They are better than the pictures I take anyway. It was
late afternoon when I gave up. I made two loafs (loaves) of bread.
Really good bread, and took one of them to the Italian couple on the
next pier, and ended up eating pizza with them. They have a 5yo girl who
is a sweetheart, and has gone to two schools in the past year (one
french one english) and starting school here in a few weeks which will
be in portugeuse. They showed me some pictures of her class; ten little
black faces and one little white face. The world needs more of that.
    I am sure there will be other thoughts. I hope to sail today for a
three day passage to the Canaries. I hope Adnaan comes back, haven't
seen him in awhile. Did get an email saying he would be here today. Out
here my winlink email system is only reliable in early morning, from
00:00 until 06:00, and I am still using Halifax, Nova Scotia as my shore
station, and it is bound to go out of range sometime. It impresses me
that the boat radio can transmit and receive that far. But there is hope
for internet again from the Canaries. So till then
Reef Early
Bill Doar
s/v Advent II