Monday 14 December - English Harbour

Monday 14 December - English Harbour
Several years ago Normandie and I made our first voyage of discovery. Our first stop was Bermuda, and at the church there we met a cruising couple, and after church we went to lunch together. We had no sailing destination, and really had no idea where the good places were. At lunch that other couple gave us advice as to where to go, and we left the restaurant with directions to English Harbour written on a paper napkin.
English Harbour, on Antigua, is a natural harbour with a twist, or rather the entrance channel turns back on itself, so that from the ocean any ships back in the harbour can not be seen. The British had a major navy base there; a place to refit and maintain the warships. It is called Nelson's Dockyard, and is a combination of national park and upscale destination. When Normandie were here back then it there were some yacht facilities, maybe a hotel, boat oriented shops, all utilizing the old original dockyard buildings. We could anchor Advent in close and there were convenient toilets, trash disposal, water, etc friendly to cruisers. Well, my how it has changed. It still has the romantic 18th century dockyard feel, and it is still friendly to cruisers, and it is still a great destination, one that I will recommend, but now you have to elbow the mega-yachts aside to get in. I could almost say that nothing has changed, all the buildings are the same, the streets are the same, etc. but now everything has a rustic gold plating about it. And I have never been anywhere with as many mega-yachts. Sailboats and motor yachts 100 - 200 feet long. This morning I awoke before daylight, was in the cockpit drinking coffee, and counted seven sailboats with aircraft obstruction lights on their masts, really tall masts.
Sterling is ashore trying to determine his future. I can not leave without him, unless he finds another boat to crew on or has an airplane ticket. A hindrance is that we have not figured out yet how to get access to the internet, and a lot of what he needs is on the internet. I think he walked over the ridge to the next harbour, Falmouth, where he heard there is an internet cafe. There are other boats in Falmouth Harbour, and he will ask around to try to find a berth on another boat. Another goal of his is to get his hair cut and styled, and not come away with dredlocks.
The good news is that I dived on the propeller, and found a big wad of sargasso weed all wrapped around the strut and shaft. I cleaned it off, ant took the boat for a brief ride around the anchorage, and I think it is usable. There is movement in the shaft/cutless bearing, so the bearing does need to be replaced. My plan is to use it like it is as I make my way to the Virgin Islands. When I get there I will have a better feeling about how it is doing, and either pull the boat there to replace the bearing, or proceed with it like it is, and replace it at the next haulout for bottom paint.
Last evening I went for a delicious swim, wonderful soapy cockpit shower, sat on the deck reading Patrick O'Brian (The Nutmeg of Consolation), waved at other cruisers passing in their dinghies, and had a sip of Nelson's Blood. This is wonderful. The only thing that could make it better is if Normandie were here. But she reminded me that the only thing that makes it possible for me to be here is for her to be there, and if she were here I would not be here I would be be there, and I would want her there, but I am not there, I am here . . .
Reef Early
Bill Doar
s/v Advent II