Saturday 23 January

Saturday 23 January
I had passed north of the Silver and Mouchoir Banks and so was approaching Turks from exactly the east, along latitude 21 degrees 16 minutes north. The Turks Islands are lined up north-south with one gap between them about three miles wide. Lat 21*-16.0' goes right through that gap. All I had to do was line up on that latitude, go west, and run right through. About 22:00 I was five miles away from Turks; lights of the island lining my horizon to the north. The wind was 20-25 from the east and I was sailing in excess of seven knots. I had been sailing quite fast, 6.5+ ever since the wind finally came back after days of going really slowly. The waves were quite big and I did not really have the precise control of the boat I thought I needed when approaching and going through the gap. I had to do that right. I completely dropped the main and partially furled the genoa getting the speed down to about 5.0, gaining more control and a much smoother ride. Two separate GPS units and the computer chart plotter all agreed that I was in the right place, and I seemingly crept over the featureless ocean through the gap, at least that is what the chartplotter said. That was a big relief. That pass was the only "dangerous" part of the landfall. But I was through now and in the deep Turks Islands Passage, 22 miles wide, separating Turks from the Caicos Banks. It was about 01:00 and I had not slept so I used that time to grab a few winks.
My sleep regimen is to do it in small snatches. If things are happening or if other vessels are nearby I will set the timer for 10 minutes, or if on the open ocean with nothing around I will sleep for 30 minutes, get up, check the wind and sails, direction, and AIS, and go back to sleep. I have the remote VHF speaker beside where I sleep, along with an AIS alarm and the radar alarm. A few nights ago a cruise ship, the "Norwegian Ostentatious" called me on the VHF from about ten miles away saying that we were on a collision course and what did I want to do? What I want is for him to not run over me. I am going 3.2 knots and he is going 22 knots and it makes little difference what I do. My response was the standard collision avoidance action, I requested him to turn to starboard, a one whistle crossing. He seemed reluctant, but with a Norwegian I could be wrong, but he changes course 3 degrees and passed a mile away. All the other cruise ships, and I must have encountered 15 of them, I have seen only cruise ships, just alter course about five miles away and pass by without any conversation. (AIS indicates the other vessel's course so I can tell when they turn). I was pretty well protected from collision when crossing the Turk's Islands Passage, but the north flowing current was stronger than I expected and the waypoint where I was to cross into the Caicos Bank was becoming difficult to sail to. Forgetting about sleep, as quickly as possible I upped the main and set the genoa to sail as close into the wind as I could. It was uncertain for awhile, and because I was sailing so close to the wind my speed was down around 3 knots, but about 05:00 I made the waypoint, crossed over into the Caicos Bank, and could change course somewhat to get a better angle to sail. I slept in 10 minute snippets until daylight.
The wind was slowly clocking around making me sail more and more "into" the wind. I had to get to Sapodilla Bay before the wind came around so much I could no longer sail. But what wind there was was dying. Then it picked up only to have a rain shower when it died again. Twice a gust hit me from the wrong side forcing me to do a 360. This was really frustrating, especially when so much was depending on me making progress. I got a text from Normandie saying "Don't worry, enjoy it. You will get 15 knots at 10:00." At 10:30 the breeze picked up, and I sailed at 5 knots all the way in.
Almost all the way in. At three miles away I was furling the mainsail when the bad weather associated with the cold front hit me. Wind 20-25-30 and rain. Not so violent but really ugly. I was under control, but the wind was from the south-west, directly into Sapodilla Bay. I could not anchor there. Just around the point is Bermudian Harbour, undoubtedly the best protected harbour in TCI. I pulled into peace and quite.
It has been a difficult passage. I was making every effort to make progress in difficult conditions, first bad wind then strong wind, I was sailing as fast as I could. What amazes me is how close I came, so many different times, to not making it or being slowed. I made it with about three hours to spare. If I had been slowed by just three hours I would still be out there dealing with a cold front passage. But after all I have been through, when bad weather finally did catch up with me, I am safely and comfortably anchored. I give thanks.
It is time to lick my wounds before moving on. I will be here several days. I haven't had access to the internet since I don't know when. Really, all I want to do is rest day or so.
Bill Doar
s/v Advent II