This is a very nice anchorage. I am tucked in behind Cape Santa Maria
in a cove protected from the prevailing east wind. It seems to have
everything; sandy beach, rocky shoreline, cliffs, good bottom for
anchoring, a reef for snorkeling, and just over the hill is a monument
to Columbus, who wrecked his ship "Santa Maria" here. I hope to go
ashore this afternoon for a walkabout to explore the cliffs and caves,
and may be able to make my way through the bush to the monument. This
anchorage has everything but people. One other boat was way down the
beach last night but it left first thing this morning. There has been
very little wind, no ripples on the surface of the water, which means
that the bottom looks like the boat is floating in the air. It still
disconcerts me to get into the dinghy when it is suspended in space, and
I can see the bottom ten feet farther down. I am also intrigued when I
can see the anchor chain go down, droodle around a bit, then there's the
anchor. I must have taken 20 pictures of the anchor on the bottom. I
just wish I had an underwater camera. This is very impressive. I went
for a swim yesterday evening and the water here seems clearer that other
places on this trip. Also, the water has warmed to the point that I
don't act like a baby getting in, and once in don't want to get out.
Gosh it was nice. I think I will just hang out here another day.
Then on the other hand, where I anchored at Clarence Town was also a
nice anchorage, but in different ways. It had a good sandy bottom and
clear water also, but it was in a large lagoon a mile or so across,
protection all around, with just a low reef stopping the waves, but not
the breeze. Here I am behind hills, which is good for protection, but I
don't really need protection from the gentle breeze today. Anchored a
little way off at Clarence Town were friends from Caicos. It was nice
seeing them again. They sailed here from Seattle, spending two years in
Patagonia on the way. Back at Clarence town Sunday I went ashore to find
the Anglican church, and maybe get to the Palm Sunday service. I found
the church, with no roof, a tarpaulin covered a stack of building
supplies, but no people. Hurricane Irene flooded Chocowinity. It also
took the roof off the Anglican church in Clarence Town. I saw no one to
ask about a service, and the sun was getting hotter by the minute, so I
went back to the boat to grind rust and paint. "Cruising is doing boat
maintenance in exotic places."
It is only 25 nm to Georgetown,
Exumas. The only real reason to make the effort to go there is free
water (generally water costs from $0.15 to $0.50 per gallon, depending
on the quality. There is a grocery in Georgetown with a dock, and water
jugs can be filled at the dock. Then you reprovision at the grocery.
People in the US don't realize how inexpensive it is to live there. All
around the world fuel is $6-$7 a gallon, processed food (canned, frozen)
is about twice as much, and consumer goods (appliances, electronics)
are about 1.5x as much. The other reason to go to George Town is that
there is a big and active (posted service schedule and people around)
Anglican church there. I can pick up Thurs, Fri & Easter Sunday
services there.
Normandie and I have worshipped at Anglican
churches on six continents. Almost anywhere in the world where there is
an English speaking community there is an Anglican church. There is no
question about whether you will be welcome, or if the service will be an
unpleasant surprise. (Well Woody, maybe sometimes.) A side benefit is
that many times you welcomed into their community. At Caicos Normandie
and I went to the same church twice, and were almost members. Another
benefit is that people at Anglican churches generally speak English.
That really comes in handy in some places. Over the years our allegiance
to the Worldwide Anglican Communion has grown. When cruising "Nice
things happen when you go to church."
A few days ago a couple was
talking about a Fr Jerome, who, as an Anglican priest, established
churches on many of the islands. The roofless church in Clarence Town
was one of them. Then he went to Rome to study, became a Roman Catholic
priest, came back and established Catholic churches on many of the
islands. Not far from the very nice Anglican church in Clarence Town is a
bigger and more impressive and newer Catholic church. Fr Jerome ended
up on Cat Island where he built, apparently alone as a monk, a place
called The Hermitage. The couple said it was a must see, so Easter
Monday I plan to sail for Cat Island. Then on up to Eleuthera (Spanish
Wells) and up to the Abacos (Marsh Harbour). After that the Gulf Stream
back to North Carolina.
Well it is too late to sail to George
Town today. Looks like I am just going to have to stay here. Oh darn.
Trapped in paradise.
Bill Doar
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